Cat Cat Village Trek – Day 19 – Sapa to Lao Cai to Hanoi Vietnam

Day 19 is our last stop in Sapa Vietnam as we do the Cat Cat Village walk with kids and without a guide, then transfer to Lao Cai and the overnight train journey from Sapa to Hanoi. We have a full moving day ahead while still dealing with the dissapointing events of our Mt Fansipan Sapa experience. With a late checkout arranged before travelling from Sapa to Lao Cai, and then taking the overnight train to Hanoi, we had the entire day to fill. The morning started quietly, the mist lifting over the mountains. We decided to walk down to Cat Cat Village, a route that turned out to be far more chaotic than expected. The main road out of Sapa was under excavation, with diggers swinging overhead and no clear pedestrian path. Tourists were funnelled down the same narrow stretch, and we found ourselves weaving between machinery and traffic just to get there. It was the route Google Maps suggested and the one the signs pointed to, but the descent was dangerous and blocked. Eventually we squeezed under the digger arms and continued down the hill, which set the tone for the rest of the walk. The kids were already tired, and my youngest had a full tantrum before we’d even reached the village entrance. The weather began to clear, revealing blue sky over Fansipan Mountain - the same mountain we’d visited the day before in thick fog - adding to the travel stess. Seeing it so clearly triggered a wave of frustration. I kept looking up at the cable cars and thinking about the missed opportunity, and it became harder to stay present as we continued the long walk down. Cat Cat Village has changed dramatically since I last visited. The entrance fee is new and far higher than expected, and because all three kids were over the height threshold, we paid full adult prices. The first long stretch of the descent was wall‑to‑wall shops. Every corner revealed more stalls, more souvenirs and more crowds. It was difficult to see any of the traditional elements I remembered — the bamboo water systems, the wheels and the channels that once defined the village. The kids were tired, the crowds were thick and I kept glancing at the sky, watching the clouds lift off Fansipan. Eventually we reached the lower section of Cat Cat Village, where the river runs through and the scenery opens up. The water, the bridges and the surrounding mountains were beautiful in the afternoon light. A group of local kids performed a traditional Veitnamese dance to modern music, and we stopped for food before beginning the long climb back out. It was a reminder that even on difficult days, there are still moments worth holding onto. From there, the day shifted into logistics. We returned to the hotel, packed our bags and were picked up earlier than necessary for the transfer to Lao Cai. Instead of going straight to the train station, we were dropped at an expensive restaurant, which made the long wait even more frustrating. The kids were fascinated by how close we were to the China border. Seeing another country sitting just across the valley is always surreal when you come from Australia. By the time we boarded the overnight train to Hanoi, the kids were exhausted. The train rattled loudly through the night, and neither my wife nor I slept. Lying awake, I realised how much the stress of the last week had been affecting me. I wrote down a list of the things I wanted to change - being more present, complaining less, putting the kids first and breaking the negative loop I’d fallen into. It was a small step, but an important one as we continued our journey from Hanoi to Halong Bay. Contents 00:00 In This Episode 01:10 Train from Lao Cai to Hanoi 02:36 Sapa to Cat Cat Village Drama 05:15 Cat Cat Village Entrance Fee 06:38 Shops and Crowds 07:35 Blue Sky 08:38 Traditional Dance and Costumes 09:15 Climbing Back to Sapa 10:30 Cat Cat to Sapa 11:05 Sapa Massage 11:20 Lao Cai train station 15:00 Chapa Express 15:30 Travel Stess 17:03 List of Things to Fix I’m Chris Stead — an award‑winning journalist, travel editor and creator of The Motivated Travel Show. I document real family travel, wellness‑anchored journeys and the emotional side of backpacking with kids across Australia, Asia and beyond. This episode is part of our Vietnam vlog in the Southeast Asia Family Travel Diary. You can follow the full playlist on the channel, along with our Sapa episodes, Hanoi episodes and the upcoming Halong Bay chapters. #vietnamtravel #catcatvillage #familytravel #travelvlog #backpacking