Summiting the Greek Island of Delos

I’m old enough now to take particular joy in revisiting places I experienced as a teenage vagabond. I’ll never forget hiking to the summit of Delos as a 19-year-old and learning how important — and literally central — to the Greek islands this now-uninhabited little island (a half-hour from Mykonos) once was. I’ve returned now with our local Mykonos guide Antonis Pothitos, after having caught an early-morning tender from my cruise ship. And I’ve affirmed my notion that — even with 3,000 tourists on my ship, and even with four such ships in port this morning in Mykonos — if you get an early start and reach for the back lanes or rocky summits, you can be all alone with the wonders of the Mediterranean (and be back on your ship by sunset for a cocktail and a little dancing poolside in your loafers).